Trench Coat Guide

The Art Of The Trench Coat

OK, I admit it; I am officially bored of winter. Those late summer/mild autumn days I spent babbling on about how I couldn’t wait until I was able to immerse myself in heavy layering and just how eager I was to break out the newly acquired outerwear, well, they truly are a very distant memory. I am openly and eagerly willing spring to hurry the hell up, and much to my delight, a very slight increase in recent temperatures means that I can certainly envision that brighter future at the end of this long wintery tunnel. I am now in fact getting so impatient that I’m already ruthlessly purchasing with spring/summer 2011 at the forefront of my mind, and at the top of my shopping to-do list, I must update my outerwear.

The Trench Coat is without a doubt one of my favourite garments within menswear fashion. Practical, flattering, smart, chic, timeless, versatile, accessible – need I continue? As I am sure you are already aware, trench coats come in great deal of different textures and fabrics, but in keeping with the tone of all things spring, today my article is concentrated more towards the classic cotton styles.


Cut & Style

Ok, so the double-breasted trench coat. Great for adding a more classic feel to your outfits, they look extremely smart and can also be a great tool to use for those who wish to add a bit of extra bulk to their upper torso. But of course, that also then means that they aren’t always quite as well suited to the slightly fuller man. A single-breasted style – which probably comes more under the title of Macintosh – will be a much greater aid in lengthening the torso, drawing the eye downwards as opposed to across. Wear the coat unbuttoned from the sternum area and fold the collar down and out to create a V-shaped neckline that will lengthen your neck and add width across your shoulders. A single-breasted style will also fall a lot cleaner if you choose to wear the trench open.
The waist belt on a trench is an absolute godsend. When worn tied into a effortlessly home-made knot, not only will it help to break up the torso it will also nip in that waist, therefore accentuating the shoulders and giving the impression of that perfect triangular shape we are all told to strive for. Epaulettes on the shoulders are great for giving a more structured, stronger shoulder and of course, portraying that military trend that is looking to stay with us until the end of time.
As for the length of the coat, I personally wouldn’t advise any man under the 6ft mark to wear a trench that finished far below their knees, and although a trench coat can be just as easily worked into both smart and casual outfits, baggy trousers/jeans just don’t quite fit that slim-line, sharp look that we have just created. Sleeve length is somewhat down to personal preference but I favour them sitting as the sleeve of my blazer would, just above the wrist bone. If people can see your under-layers poking out through your sleeves or maybe even a cheeky glimpse of watch, well, that’s just perfect!

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